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Complete 12-Season Personal Color Palette Guide: Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter

The complete 12-season color analysis guide: how hue, value and chroma define each season, all 12 palettes, Soft Summer vs Soft Autumn and finding your season.

By the TheFaceRating Editorial TeamPublished Updated

Personal color analysis matches colors to your natural coloring so that clothes, makeup and hair color make your skin look even and your eyes bright. The 12-season system, which grew out of the four-season approach popularized by Carole Jackson's Color Me Beautiful (1980), is the most widely used version today. This guide explains the three dimensions behind it, walks through all 12 palettes and shows how to find your season.

The three dimensions of color

  1. Hue (undertone): warm (golden, peachy) vs. cool (pink, blue-red).
  2. Value (depth): light vs. deep, combining skin, hair and eye depth.
  3. Chroma (clarity): bright and clear vs. soft and muted, related to the contrast between your features.

Each season is defined by its dominant dimension. "Light" seasons are led by value, "Bright" and "Soft" by chroma, "Deep" by value, and "True" seasons by hue.

The four families

  • Spring: warm and clear.
  • Summer: cool and soft.
  • Autumn: warm and muted.
  • Winter: cool and clear.

All 12 seasons

SeasonUndertoneValueChromaSignature colorsMetals
Light SpringWarm-neutralLightMediumPeach, light aqua, warm pinkLight gold, rose gold
True SpringWarmMediumBrightCoral, golden yellow, warm turquoiseYellow gold
Bright SpringWarm-neutralMediumVery brightHot coral, clear turquoise, bright greenShiny gold
Light SummerCool-neutralLightSoftPowder blue, lavender, soft pinkSilver, white gold
True SummerCoolMediumSoftDusty rose, soft navy, blue-greySilver, pewter
Soft SummerCool-neutralMediumVery softSmoky blue, mauve, sagePewter, brushed silver
Soft AutumnWarm-neutralMediumVery softOlive, camel, muted tealAntique gold, bronze
True AutumnWarmMedium-deepSoftRust, mustard, terracottaGold, copper
Deep AutumnWarm-neutralDeepMediumChocolate, burgundy, forest greenAntique gold, brass
Bright WinterCool-neutralMediumVery brightFuchsia, cobalt, icy pinkPlatinum, silver
True WinterCoolMedium-deepBrightPure black and white, emerald, rubySilver
Deep WinterCool-neutralDeepBrightBlack, deep purple, pine greenSilver, gunmetal

Soft Summer vs. Soft Autumn

These neighbors are the most commonly confused pair. Both are muted and low-contrast; the difference is undertone. Soft Summer leans cool and looks best in smoky blues, dusty rose, sage and soft plum with silver. Soft Autumn leans warm and looks best in olive, camel, terracotta and muted teal with antique gold. Quick test: hold dusty rose and warm camel near your face in daylight. Whichever makes your skin look even, and the other sallow or chalky, tells you your side. Both should avoid pure black, neon and icy brights near the face.

Light Summer vs. Light Spring

Both seasons are light and low-contrast. Light Summer leans cool (powder blue, lavender, soft pink with silver); Light Spring leans warm (peach, light aqua, warm pink with light gold). Pale grey is a quick tiebreaker: it looks fresh on Light Summer and drab on Light Spring.

Bright Spring vs. Bright Winter

Both have high contrast and love clear, saturated color. Bright Spring leans warm (hot coral, warm turquoise, golden accents); Bright Winter leans cool (fuchsia, cobalt, icy accents). If pure black looks striking rather than harsh on you, lean Bright Winter.

How to find your season

  1. Use indirect daylight from a window. Warm bulbs push results toward Autumn and Spring; shade and screens push toward Summer and Winter.
  2. Remove makeup, filters and colored lenses; pull back dyed hair.
  3. Compare pure white with off-white, and silver with gold, next to your face.
  4. Or use the AI personal color analysis: with your consent, a vision model reads undertone, contrast and depth and returns your season with six best colors, three to avoid and a free neckline preview in your best shade.

Makeup by season family

  • Spring: peach and coral blush, warm pink or coral lips, golden-brown or bronze eyeshadow, brown rather than black liner.
  • Summer: rose and soft berry blush, mauve and dusty pink lips, taupe, grey and soft plum eyeshadow, soft brown-black liner.
  • Autumn: terracotta and warm bronze blush, brick, rust and warm nude lips, olive, copper and bronze eyeshadow, brown liner.
  • Winter: cool pink or berry blush, true red, fuchsia or deep berry lips, charcoal, navy and silver eyeshadow, black liner.

Foundation should match your undertone first and your depth second; a foundation that's the right depth but the wrong undertone looks orange or ashy in daylight.

Using your palette

  • Near the face first: tops, necklines, scarves, frames and earrings matter most. See necklines for your face shape.
  • Hair color: stay within your temperature: golden and copper for warm seasons, ash and blue-black for cool.
  • Frames: tortoiseshell and gold for warm seasons, black, grey and silver for cool. See glasses for your face shape.

Your undertone doesn't change, but depth and contrast do with tanning, hair color and age. Many people shift to a softer neighboring season over time.

Free tool

Measure it on your own face

Find your 12-season palette from a single selfie: six best colors, three to avoid, and a free neckline preview rendered in your best shade.

Open Personal Color Analysis

Frequently asked questions

How do I find my color season?

Look at your face in daylight next to white vs. off-white and silver vs. gold, or use the AI personal color analysis, which reads undertone, depth and contrast from a makeup-free daylight selfie.

What are the 12 color seasons?

Light, True and Bright Spring; Light, True and Soft Summer; Soft, True and Deep Autumn; Bright, True and Deep Winter.

What's the difference between Soft Summer and Soft Autumn?

Both are muted and low-contrast. Soft Summer is cool-leaning (dusty rose, smoky blue, silver); Soft Autumn is warm-leaning (olive, camel, antique gold).

Can AI do color analysis from a selfie?

Yes, reasonably well in good daylight. Lighting is the biggest source of error, so use indirect window light and no filters.

Can my color season change over time?

Your undertone stays the same, but tanning, hair color and age change depth and contrast, so you may move to a neighboring season.

Can I wear black if I'm not a Winter?

Yes, away from the face. Wear black trousers, skirts and shoes freely; near the face, switch to your season's darkest neutral, such as chocolate for Autumn, navy for Summer or warm charcoal for Spring.

Should I dye my hair to match my season?

Staying within your temperature is the safest choice: warm seasons suit golden, copper and caramel tones, cool seasons suit ash, platinum and blue-black. Going far outside your natural depth changes your contrast level too.

References

  1. Jackson C (1980). Color Me Beautiful. Acropolis Books, Washington DC.